Back in the USA – post Armageddon

So anyway we chickened out and had a delivery crew bring Carmen back to Ventura. It was supposed to be San Francisco, but the alternator quit at Santa Catalina and Ventura has a large Cummins dealer. Fate always has a way of exerting the upper hand.

We arrived in Ventura with our new extended family, Farley, our now six months old Havanese puppy came with us for a three day drive from Sidney, BC to Ventura. It all went very well.

So we relaxed after our trip, sorted out the boat in Ventura, and began looking for weather windows for the trip north. Weather windows are very similar to PC windows in that they are not very stable. If anyone had told me that calculators that sometimes crashed would become perfectly acceptable business tools before we entered the “personal and desktop” computer age, they would have been laughed out of town. Those days it was mainframes as big as today’s condos to do the payroll.

So our view was that we had to find several windows, one for the trip to Santa Barbara, a mere 2½ hour run, one for Pts Conception and Arguello to Morro Bay, another for the run to Monterey and yet another for the run up to SF Bay and Alameda. A study of the various weather forecasts showed that they were very similar to economic forecasts. Use with great caution and a good dose of sheer disbelief. Simply put the number of different forecasts equals the number of sources -1. The truth lies…….somewhere out there.

Speaking of economic forecasts – the atmosphere in the USA is very different from last fall. Now it is post Armageddon (the late fall and winter US & World financial meltdown) and it shows, things are very quiet, no one around at the marinas and such. Diesel is now nearly affordable. Of course the Canadian $ has fallen in exact proportion so again fate rules.

The micro climate of this area shows that two distinct windows are required, one across the Santa Barbara channel to Santa Barbara and the other out of Santa Barbara round the terrible duo and on the Morro Bay. On April 30^th the 1^st window opened. So we took it and had a fairly uncomfortable 2½ hour run. Farley was sick! Yes he was not a happy camper. Very little roll but boy the seas were short, and that was with no wind. Our new strategy is to concentrate on wind; if there is little wind we figure we can handle the rest of it. Wind waves on top of swell makes for bad news.

A change in the forecast saw us head out the following day instead of taking the break. We had a reasonable run to Morro Bay but again Farley was sick. Carmen, our feline companion, of course was not sick but also not overly pleased. We gained Morro Bay without incident, other that the use of a lot of paper towels. The forecast indicated a stay in Morro for the day so we did just that. On Sunday the 3^rd we set off for Monterey, a long but calmer run. There was again no wind but the seas were quite big, 8-10ft swells. The view from the pilothouse was like an alien landscape, gentle rolling water hills with a series of mountain ridges marching across the scene. The mountain ridges proved to be benign as we just went up one side and then down the other, quite an experience. Farley was not sick! Everyone was pleased.

The forecast for Monday was poor and so we lounged around for a day and then decided to split the next run into two days, one to Half Moon bay where we would take on fuel – seeing we were getting low, and the following day head up to Alameda. Both days were easy runs with no wind to Half Moon and little wind to the gate and beyond. Foggy though, yes the days without wind are very poor visibility days.

We passed under the gate at 1130hrs on Wednesday the 6^th and went over to Alameda. Visibility was poor at about ½ mile.

We made fast, and then pretty much crashed – had to catch up on our rest. Journey’s end.

Now we are looking forward to the SFBANTA Rendezvous and the special weekend that follows.

Winter in La Paz

La Paz has its good, bad and ugly.

The “good” - the weather is nice, a little too hot, but no rain. The water is warm, or was but it has now fallen to 68 Fahrenheit. The wind blows a lot, in fact it nearly always blows whenever we go out to the local islands to anchor out, making the night decidedly uncomfortable. It seems to be calm when we are in the marina.

The town itself is quite interesting it has a newish walkway alongside the bay with some very striking sculptures. The actual commercial district is a few blocks wide and long. It has some very nice streets of residential houses, small but immaculate. It has no sense of a sidewalk. Those that exist do so in isolation of their next door neighbour both in terms of material and LEVEL. Grade is an unknown word here.

To walk anywhere, and we walk everywhere for the obvious reasons, you have to angle one eyeball on downwards to navigate the uneven sidewalk – pavement – dirt – cobbles – blocks – cement – whatever, and one eyeball angled upwards to see the low slung trees – cables – signs – awnings etc. It is most suited to mountain goats. The other neat thing is that all unused poles, iron stays, signs etc. are cut off at about 4” just to catch the unwary!

Folks here are proud of the safety of La Paz. We do not have any tourists like Cabo (used to have). However I see this as interesting for a town that has four different police forces plus armed military forces on show most of the time. All windows and doors are covered with iron/steel bars and our marina gate is covered with razor wire. So five armed militia groups and security guards everywhere as well as iron grilles – I suspect there might be a reason for it – but then again this is Mexico.

After about 5 blocks up from the waterfront it all goes to ugly, Mexico has a lock on brown and it also seems to know how to do real ugly. The folks are nice though.

Most restaurants and street vendors serve Mexican food, which seems to consist of corn (in a multitude of varieties) and beans. No one seems to be starving, however one must remember that two of the police forces are devoted to separating the non wealthy (make that real poor) from the in town poorer ‘non wealthy’. So although we don’t see them around town I have heard enough to know that they are out there … on the edges of town.

Places with real chutzpah charge in US dollars while most places work in Pesos, probably due to the fact that this is Mexico. If it has to do with Boats and Gringos then it is (way over) priced in dollars. See previous post about $56 burgers with limp fries in Cabo. Avoid if at all possible.

The language is interesting; Spanish is an old and cumbersome language that has been modernized by making it far more staccato and loud. So they do a lot of what seems like shouting, very fast, with no tonal variations. So pass the salt probably will sound very like abandon ship. It is a twisty language at best.

And so to the “bad” – no nation can succeed by eating Mexican food morning noon and night. Their meat cuts are weird and small. Their music is - well I guess Latin is the word. OK for the first five minutes, thereafter …..

The “ugly” you just don’t want to know. Believe me.